Riding the Demon: On the Road in West Africa

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In Niger, where access to rail and air travel requires overcoming many obstacles, roads are the nation's lifeline. For a year in the early 1990s, Peter Chilson travelled this desert country by automobile to experience West African road culture. He crisscrossed the same roads again and again with bush taxi driver Issoufou Garba in order to learn one driver's story inside and out. He hitchhiked, riding in cotton trucks, and travelled with other bush taxi drivers, truckers, road engineers, an anthropologist, Niger's only ...

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