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Along the banks of the river once called Oxus lie the heartlands of Central Asia: Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. Catapulted into the news by events in Afghanistan, just across the water, these strategically important, intriguing and beautiful countries remain almost completely unknown to the outside world. One diligent seminary student in the holy city of Bukhara was exhiled to Siberia as a shepherd in the 1917 revolution and then conscripted into the Red Army. Tens of thousands of Poles walked and rode through Central Asia on ...

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